Les Années Folles

The Roaring Twenties are called Les Années Folles in France. And right now there is a roaring good show of clothing and accessories of the 1920’s at Galliera, the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

This epoch has special resonance for me, a teen in the 1960’s, since both periods featured huge changes for women, music, dance and clothing. Society went crazy (folle) in the 20’s and in the 60’s.

After the First World War, women’s bodies were released from corsets, their legs liberated from constricting long skirts, allowed to kick free. You can’t dance the Charleston in a long dress. There are several films shown throughout the exhibit. Be careful not to pass by the footage of Charleston dancers screened in an alcove near the beginning of the show.

Pay attention to the short hair. People forget just how radical it was for women to bob their hair – the shock equivalent of the Mohawk in our time.

Don’t dismiss this expo because of the clothing and fashion connection. You could miss a unique chance to see grand works of art through a fascinating historical lens. This is a rare opportunity to see great examples of couturier art – originals by Lanvin, Poiret, Chanel, Patou, Vionnet, Lelong, Scaioni, Schiaparelli, Lacroix and Sonia Delaunay. The fabrics are sumptuous: velvets, satins, silks, lamé, nets and knits. They’re smocked, pleated, ruched, feathered, fringed and encrusted with elaborate embroidery and beading. There are hats, shoes, jewelry, handbags, make-up, parasols and perfumes.

These pieces are seldom exhibited. The fabrics are fragile so the lights are low (like the pastel rooms at the Musée d’Orsay) and photography is prohibited. The venue is small for the huge number of works on display. Go early because you’ll want to stay awhile.

Heads up for
- the Fortuny gown by the entrance that looks like liquid gold and resembles Peggy Guggenheim’s famous favorite dress
- the dress made from fabric woven by Isadora Duncan’s brother Raymond
- the fashion photos by Man Ray

Until February 29, 2008
10, avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie 75115 Paris